Off the bitten trail to Mardi Himal base camp

The Kaligandaki valley once provided culturally rich and naturally rewarding walking in the Himalayas. Expansion of the dirt roads has put off trekkers from the once most popular trail in Annapurna. As such, tourism professionals have been researching to develop alternative yet rewarding treks in the Annapurna. The Mardi Himal trek is one of the best trekking routes, opened only in 2012. The trek is short, relatively easy, and rewarding with a diverse landscape and a close-up view of Annapurna Himalayan peaks.

There are several starting points for the Mardi Himal trek. One can drive about 18 km to Milan Chowk and climb up to Dhampus if they have more time. We drove to Kande and climbed for about 1 and a half hrs. to the Australian camp at 2,060 m. Nestled in Rhododendron, Maple, and Oak forests, the Australian camp is overlooking the Pokhara valley with a panoramic view of the whole Annapurna range. After a scrumptious lunch, we walked further to the mountain pass village of Deurali for an overnight stay.

The Gurung village of Pothana with a Himalayan background.

From Deurali, we leave the main trail to Annapurna base camp and follow the ridge through the forest. 'Forest camp' is about 5 hours away. We carried extra bottles of water and some food as there was no teahouse on the way. The trail gradually climbs along the forested ridge with some short, steep climbs. The altitude gain is only about 400 m. The walking will be the highlight for bird watchers. Forest camp has three lodges in the clearing of the forest. 

Teahouse kitchen in Forest camp at 2,570 m

Teahouses along the Mardi Himal trek are limited and basic (There are plenty now), as it is a new route for the teahouse trek. You need to be with an experienced supporting team (guide and porters) who can help in the kitchen if needed. Carry a good sleeping bag, supplementary food, titbits, and a first aid kit.
The trail gradually climbs through the forest to 'Low camp' at 2,990 m. Low camp is another clearing in the forest with two lodges. One can see Mt Fishtail from Low Camp. We decided to climb for another 1 hour to Badal Danda (cloud hill) at 3,300 m. At Badal Danda, we come out of the treeline, and the Himalayan vista opens up to us. There is only one lodge, though. Water is scarce in this place. The owners were fetching the water on their backs from a few hundred meters down.

The 5,587 m Mardi Himal overlaps with Mt Fishtail.

Climb to the ridge top 50 m above the lodge, and you find yourself above the clouds. The view is surreal with deep valleys on either side and snow peaks rising to the sky just across. The place has a majestic sunset view over the Himalayan peaks sticking out of the clouds. 

Watching sunset from Badal Danda en route to Mardi Himal base camp.

At this altitude, we have come out to the alpine landscape with shrubby patches and grassland. The trail gets vertiginous at some point with a steep drop down. Altitude catches up and slows you down. However, walking is energizing with an imminent view of snow peaks and a far-reaching valley view under the wide open sky.  High camp (3,550 m) is just about 3 hours of gradual uphill. There are only three lodges at High Camp. 

Sunset over Himalayan peaks as seen from Badal Danda.

The big day - Hike to Mardi Himal base camp at 4,500 m. 

The trek to 'High Camp' is easy yet rewarding. However, the day's walk to Mardi Himal base camp is challenging. The total altitude gain is about 1,000 m, and it takes about 8 hrs. to get to the Mardi Himal base camp and back. The trail is narrow and steep above sheer cliffs at some points. One can also climb 3 hrs. to the 'Upper viewpoint' and back. The view is more or less similar. One can see peaks seen from Annapurna base camp, like Annapurna I and III.
As soon as we leave High camp, the trail climbs steeply for two hours to a signpost marking 'Mardi Himal base camp' . This is not a real base camp but a tourist view point. Then follow the ridge for one more hour to get to the 'Upper view point'. Further from here, the trail comes to the base of rockery after about another half an hour. Mardi Himal base camp is about 250 m above this steep rocky climb. There are some yak and sheep farms on the way from High camp. One needs to be prepared with plenty of water and food. 

On the way to Mardi Himal base camp

There are several ways to end this relatively easy and awe-inspiring short trek in Nepal. One can combine this trek with Pun Hill or Annapurna Base Camp as well. We came down to Lwang village in a couple of days from the High camp. Lwang village has a community tea garden and homestay accommodation, which gives you an opportunity to stay with a local family and experience their day-to-day life. About 100 farmers are growing organic tea in an area of 50 hectares in the village. Local youths organize Canyoning in the 105 m waterfall near the village.  

Mardi Himal Short trekking videos : 

Mardi Himal Heli trek

A heli - trek of Mardi Himal could be organized for 2 - 3 days