Off the bitten trail to Mardi Himal base camp

The Kaligandaki valley once provided culturally rich and naturally rewarding walking in the Himalayas. Expansion of the dirt roads have put off trekkers from the once most popular trail in Annapurna. In such, tourism professionals have been reseraching to develop alternate yet rewarding treks in the Annapurna.
Mardi Himal trek is one of the best trekking route opened only in 2012. The trek is short, relatively easy and rewarding with diverse landscape and closeup view of Annapurna Himalayan peaks.

There are several starting point for the Mardi Himal trek. One can drive about 18 km to Milanchowk and climb up to Dhampus if they have more time. We drove to Kande and climbed for about 1 and half hrs to Australian camp at 2,060 m. Nestled in Rhododendron, Maple and Oak forest, Australian camp is overlooking the Pokhara valley with panoramic view of whole Annapurna range. After scrumptious lunch we walked further to mountain pass village of Deurali for overnight stay.

The Gurung village of Pothana with Himalayan background.

From Deurali, we leave the main trail to Annapurna base camp and follow the ridge through the forest. 'Forest camp' is about 5 hrs away. We carried extra bottle of water and some food as there is no teahouse on the way. The trail gradually climbs along the forested ridge with some short steep climbs. The altitude gain is only about 400 m. The walking will be the highlight for bird watchers. Forest camp has got three lodges in the clearing of the forest.

Teahouse kitchen in Forest camp at 2,570 m

Teahouses along the Mardi Himal trek are limited and basic as it is new route for teahouse trek. You need to be with experienced supporting team (guide and porters) who can help in the kitchen if needed. Carry good sleeping bag, supplementary food, tit-bits and first aid kit.
The trail gradually climbs through the forest to 'Low camp' at 2,990 m. Low camp is another clearing in the forest with two lodges. One can see the Mt Fishtail from Low camp. We decided to climb for another 1 hr to Badal danda (cloud hill) at 3,300 m. At Badal danda, we come out of the treeline and the Himalayan vista opens up to us. There is only one lodge though. Water is scarce at this place. The owners were fetching the water on their back from few hundred meter down.

The 5,587 m Mardi Himal overlaps with Mt Fishtail.

Climb to the ridge top 50 m above the lodge and you find yourself above the clouds. The view is surreal with deep valleys on the either sides and snow peaks rising to the sky just across. The place have majestic sunset view over the Himalayan peaks sticking out of the clouds.

Watching sunset from Badal danda en-route Mardi Himal base camp.

At this altitude, we have come out to the alpine landscape with shrubby patches and grassland. The trail gets vertiginous at some point with steep drop down. Altitude catches up and slows you down. However walking is energizing with immanent view of snow peaks and far reaching valley view under the wide open sky.  High camp (3,550 m) is just about 3 hrs gradual uphill. There are only three lodges at High camp.

Sunset over Himalayan peaks as seen from Badal Danda.

The big day - Hike to Mardi Himal base camp at 4,500 m. 

The trek until 'High camp' is easy yet rewarding. However the day's walk to Mardi Himal base camp is challenging. The total altitude gain is about 1,000 m and it takes about 8 hrs to get to the Mardi Himal base camp and back. The trail is narrow and steep above sheer cliff at some points. One can also climb 3 hrs to the 'Upper view point' and back. The view is less or more similar. One can see peaks seen from Annapurna base camp like Annapurna I and III.
As soon as we leave High camp, the trail climbs steeply for two hrs to a signpost marking 'Mardi Himal base camp' . This is not real base camp but tourist view point. Then follow the ridge for one more hr to get to the 'Upper view point'. Further from here, the trail comes to the base of rockery after about anothr half and hour. Mardi Himal base camp is about 250 m above this steep rocky climb. There are some yak and sheep farms on the way from High camp. One need to be prepared with plenty of water and food. 

On the way to Mardi Himal base camp

There are several ways of ending this trek. One can combine this trekking with Pun Hill or Annapurna base camp as well. We came down to Lwang village in couple of days from High camp. Lwang village has community homestay as accommodation that gives you an opportunity to stay with local family and experience their day to day life. About 100 farmers are growing organic tea in the area of 50 heaters in the village. Local youths organizes Canyoning in the 105 m waterfall near the village.
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